My thought was to brush on a light coat of marine caulk on the underside of the new transom wood I'm installing this week to create a watertight barrier.
I was going to apply it, then use a paint brush to spread it on the underside of the transom wood.
I applied it straight from the caulking gun on mine. Then I tightened all the fasteners while the adhesive was still wet. I made sure I placed a good bead around the edges and around all the bolt holes. I should note that I predrilled all the holes in the transom board and then expoxied and varnished the board before installing it.
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1956/7 Ranger III - 1956 Johnson Javelin 30 hp - 1957 Evinrude Big Twin 35 hp - 195? FrankenMerc 50 hp coming soon.
i did the same, but i used industrial contact adhesive by liquid nails. definitely drill and varnish first. and then once you tighten, you might varnish any areas that crack under the pressure of the washers.
I've heard that POR-15 works really well to protect the wood, you just don't get the wood grain finish like a varnish as it's a solid colour. PL Premium Construction Adhesive might be a good choice to seal it to the transom but it might be a little tough to get off if you ever need to do it again.
I applied it straight from the caulking gun on mine. Then I tightened all the fasteners while the adhesive was still wet. I made sure I placed a good bead around the edges and around all the bolt holes. I should note that I predrilled all the holes in the transom board and then expoxied and varnished the board before installing it.
That's exactly how I plan on doing it. Though, on the transom wood, I didn't epoxy it. I just used high grade varnish - about 10 coats total on sapele mahogany. I know that the epoxy is the best route, but the varnish should last me at least 5 years or more.
I found some real nice milled cedar on my way to Wal Mart in Athens on monday. I think it will be perfect for all my wood replacement need on the Ranger. I thinking about using it to make a floor out of to.
I found some real nice milled cedar on my way to Wal Mart in Athens on monday. I think it will be perfect for all my wood replacement need on the Ranger. I thinking about using it to make a floor out of to.
Any of the foregoing applications will work as long as the metal and the wood is buttered well with sealant, and a good bead is laid around the holes. In addition to that, I also gooped up the bolts themselves with plenty of sealant, then torqued them down snug. The bolts will probably require period re-torquing and a bead of sealant from time-to-time also may be called for following a close inspection. But you're on the right track and your method should be more than adequate. Mineral spirits applied liberally to a cloth rag (or water, depending on the sealant base), will remove excess and leave a neat finish.
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Bob
"Those who are too smart to engage in politics are punished by being governed by those who aren't." Plato
