Johnson TN-28, What To Do? - Feather Craft Forum

sorefeet · Voyager Contributor

RE: Johnson TN-28, What To Do?

boatboy · Voyager Contributor

You got the new grip. What's next?

sorefeet · Voyager Contributor

Progress! I know a "lame" attempt at humor.

Outboard Dave · Voyager Contributor

boatboy wrote:
I believe the owner of Fox Grip was George Fox but he died several years ago. I think his wife now handles the business. When I go to the Constaine, MI AOMC meet in July, there is a guy that sells the Fox Grip Johnson handles. I bought one from him two years ago for my QD-13. He was also there last year. He charged $16.00 for them.
John

I have talked with her on the phone and she is the SWEETEST lady!

sorefeet · Voyager Contributor

wbeaton wrote:
Yes. Pat Koranda sells them now.
http://johnsonseahorse.tripod.com/id4.html

Thanks! I just ordered mine.

wbeaton · Flyer Contributor

Yes. Pat Koranda sells them now.

http://johnsonseahorse.tripod.com/id4.html

sorefeet · Voyager Contributor

Howdy,

Any way to reach this lady or their company?

boatboy · Voyager Contributor

I believe the owner of Fox Grip was George Fox but he died several years ago. I think his wife now handles the business. When I go to the Constaine, MI AOMC meet in July, there is a guy that sells the Fox Grip Johnson handles. I bought one from him two years ago for my QD-13. He was also there last year. He charged $16.00 for them.

John

wbeaton · Flyer Contributor

The bent rod is a mixing valve. Its the low speed adjustment. Fox Grip and nymarine.ca both sell afermarket grips. Fox Grip is much cheaper, but I can never seem to get them on the phone. I think the TN uses the same grip as the early QD series. Actually, most Johnsons of that period use the same grip.

sorefeet · Voyager Contributor

Howdy All,

I finally found my 3 jaw puller and got the flywheel off. I took the lower cowl off to have a look, frankly, at what I'm not really sure. Plug wires, boots, etc.

I was wondering what the small rod like adjustment on the underside, looks like it is an carb adjustment. I hope it shows up in the images.

Also, is there any supplier for reproduction grips? This one had 35 year old friction tape on it.

Thanks in advance.

wbeaton · Flyer Contributor

Coils are still available. They are the same universal coils as your Fastwin. Sierra 18-5181 or BRP 584477. It takes regular 90W gear oil. Some folks use lubriplate with good results.

-- Edited by wbeaton on Saturday 12th of March 2011 08:40:42 PM

sorefeet · Voyager Contributor

Well it looks like I wait to put fuel in it....coils!
I bet I get to take off the flywheel now?
Are the points & coils available, I did a little research on my 56 SeaHorse and they were available at NAPA.
I found some "Lubriplate NO. 105 Outboard Motor Lube," "ForGear Cases of Non Shift Motors." Is this the lube for the lower end?

Again thanks in advance.

wbeaton · Flyer Contributor

Pop off the three 7/16" bolts on top of the flywheel and you will find the access hole. If the coils look ok then just clean and set the points to .020" and put it back together. Otherwise, you have to remove the flywheel and repair the ignition.

The neutral clutch is a big spring. Its not like a normal lower unit. What you are seeing is normal.

-- Edited by wbeaton on Friday 11th of March 2011 06:38:32 AM

sorefeet · Voyager Contributor

Howdy,
Tonight I decided to see what was under the "cowel." I'm guessing that the coils and point sets are under the flywheel?

I did notice that the propeller spun even when the "neutral lever" was pulled. Is that normal? I would'nt think so.

Thanks in advance for advice!

Tall Texan · Top Gun III Contributor

One of the saying that I love when someone runs an ad

"Ran last time it was used"

Liked someone will use it if it did not run

Here is a car for sale....Ran Great last time it was used

wbeaton · Flyer Contributor

1956. Pretty motor.

sorefeet · Voyager Contributor

Thanks for the info, My other Johnson came "Fresh off the lake, Runs!" another ebay purchase. I bought it for looks & over paid.

-- Edited by sorefeet on Friday 4th of March 2011 04:27:02 PM

wbeaton · Flyer Contributor

Before you try starting it spray some oil in the cylinders to lube it up a bit. Remove the recoil and the inspection plate on top of the flywheel. Take a look at the coils. If they are cracked, sweaty or discoloured they are bad even if they spark. The TN shares the universal magneto and the coils have a 100% failure rate. Most motors I buy that "ran last year" have old cracked coils. I just sold my remaining TN's. They are great motors.

The leather seals are for the primer. If it leaks around the primer you will need to replace the seals. However, if the motor hasn't run in a while you might find that once the old dry seals absorb some fuel they will seal up again.

-- Edited by wbeaton on Thursday 3rd of March 2011 12:59:43 PM

bkrsdoz · Veteran Contributor

It won't hurt to try it. Just make sure you use the correct 1/2 pint to a gallon (16:1) ratio of oil to gas mixture. Check the foot (lower unit) for oil. If it needs some use Lubriplate 105 assembly lube. If it has no spark, it needs the points under the flywheel cleaned. Mine did. I have not had any trouble with the carburator. I don't know about the "leather seals". Mine runs great!
bkrsdoz

sorefeet · Voyager Contributor

Thanks to all.
Am I to assume it won't run if I add fuel? I bought it on ebay, oh and "it ran just last fall" which would '09.'

bkrsdoz · Veteran Contributor

Actually, the TN-28 uses an impeller with a special sized id. The Sierra # 18-3001 will work if the brass center id is reemed out a bit to fit the TN-28 shaft size. The lower unit has a neutral clutch, and the cable has to be disconnected at the lever on the right side of the power head, before it will come apart. It is a simple one to replace, it just takes a little more time than the normal Johnson JW's to do. I have one, and it is a great runner. The neutral feature is great!
bkrsdoz

Tall Texan · Top Gun III Contributor

Outboard Dave wrote:

The carb has two leather gaskets that need to be checked. If I'm not wrong, the carb has a very small hole in which it breaths. You can cut new gaskets out of an old belt or some other leather item.

The lower unit has an excentric that acts as a water pump and can be bought off e-bay. I saw a whole cluster of them a day or two ago.

That will work for a short time...about a year and the leather will fall apart

http://www.aomci.org/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1297993766/1#1

http://hoodad.fortunecity.com/index2.html

-- Edited by Tall Texan on Wednesday 2nd of March 2011 09:18:34 PM

Outboard Dave · Voyager Contributor

The carb has two leather gaskets that need to be checked. If I'm not wrong, the carb has a very small hole in which it breaths. You can cut new gaskets out of an old belt or some other leather item.

The lower unit has an excentric that acts as a water pump and can be bought off e-bay. I saw a whole cluster of them a day or two ago.

Tall Texan · Top Gun III Contributor

When you need the leather parts for the primer on the carb ( and you will need them ) Lloyd with AOMCI has them

sorefeet · Voyager Contributor

Howdy,

Here is the motor I'd like to get running.
Tank is dry and rust free.
Pulls through with "pretty good" compression.
As you can see I've got some time to get it running before we get "soft" water.
Does anyone have a "to do" check list on reviving an eldery outboard motor?
Thanks,